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Okaloosa County BOCC — December 6, 2016 — Sand Trace Study - ETS OkaloosaBCC 6Dec16 v3 — reading text
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Sand Transport Study, East Pass, Destin, FL.
Okaloosa County Board of County Commissioners
Tues. 6 Dec 2016
Dr. Jon Marsh, ETS
• Jon Marsh: BSc. Hons. Oceanography & Geology. PhD in sediment transport proving movement
& fate of sediment in lakes, rivers, estuaries & coasts >25 years studying sediment transport.
• >100 sediment transport studies worldwide: many more than anyone else
• Experience/knowledge: 14 US states, 12 USACE & UK/EU, Australia & NZ - Fort Pierce Inlet,
FL. (FDEP, St. Lucie County & Taylor Eng.), Pascagoula (Mobile Corps)
• Specialise in sediment tracing & metocean data & measurements: critical review of
past studies, evaluate modeling, identify data gaps, provide tangible & unequivocal data,
provide solutions & solve real-world problems, piece together ‘jigsaw’ to complete picture…
• Calibration & validation data for sediment transport models: Critical to be accurate,
reflect observations & fit for purpose e.g. sediment management – public & regulators sceptical
• 100% independent, neutral & no agenda
• Jon Marsh: BSc. Hons. Oceanography & Geology. PhD in sediment transport proving movement
& fate of sediment in lakes, rivers, estuaries & coasts >25 years studying sediment transport.
• >100 sediment transport studies worldwide: many more than anyone else
• Experience/knowledge: 14 US states, 12 USACE & UK/EU, Australia & NZ - Fort Pierce Inlet,
FL. (FDEP, St. Lucie County & Taylor Eng.), Pascagoula (Mobile Corps)
• Specialise in sediment tracing & metocean data & measurements: critical review of
past studies, evaluate modelling, identify data gaps, provide tangible & unequivocal data,
provide solutions & solve real-world problems, piece together ‘jigsaw’ to complete picture…
• Calibration & validation data for sediment transport models: Critical to be accurate,
reflect observations & fit for purpose e.g. sediment management – public & regulators sceptical
• 100% independent, neutral & no agenda
Why I am here today?
- Lot of work, studies, modeling, measurements done in East Pass to date, but….
- Uncertainty & disagreement from lack of understanding on key processes (tidal/waves), impact
of natural processes (storms) vs dredging (creating deep hollows) & borrow areas (considered
minor) despite breaking longshore conveyor belt & cross-shore processes & depth of closure
- Modeling as ‘good’ & as comprehensive as any other, but is flawed, inaccurate, incl. fudge
factors, crude assumptions & not properly calibrated/validated & does not ‘fit’ real observations
- Without certainty, understanding, accuracy – cannot manage sediment locally/regionally &
‘reacting’ - dredging, coastal erosion, nourishment projects, sand capture & transfer systems….
- Propose sand tracing study to bring all disparate info together built on real data
• Fluorescent environmentally inert particles: mimic sand grains: size distribution & density
• Very detectable & ideal for high energy sites: tracked >5 years & 10’s sq. miles e.g.
Mouth of Columbia River, OR. - detect 1 grain in 1lb dry sand
• Sediment tracers assimilate complex key 3D processes: tides, currents, waves, wind-
driven circulation, bedform, burial – USACE ERDC ‘only way to measure this type of information’
• Multiple colours: label different sediments, sites, dredged material, weather conditions…
• Map distribution & fate over time to determine:
- transport pathways & rates
- volume & mass balance
- calibrate/validate numerical models
- quantify size that moves & also remains…
- No hope of sediment transport model predictions being correct
• Current models cannot solve complex & small-scale equations of motion in 3D: (incl.
Delft 3D) erosion-resuspension, settling-deposition, turbulence, bedform, burial, saltation, re-
entrainment….key for nearshore beaches & inlets – author van Rijn ‘5-10 years away from starting’
• Models assume sand moves permanently as bedload OR suspended load ONLY = 2D:
reality sand in constant flux – not force grains from 0.29 to 2mm in order model predicts deposition
• ‘Many models are over-simplifications of complex systems that are poorly
understood, calibrated or validated’ - van Rijn:
- No hope of sediment transport model predictions being correct
• Current models cannot solve complex & small-scale equations of motion in 3D: (incl.
Delft 3D) erosion-resuspension, settling-deposition, turbulence, bedform, burial, saltation, re-
entrainment….key for nearshore beaches & inlets – author van Rijn ‘5-10 years away from starting’
• Models assume sand moves permanently as bedload OR suspended load ONLY = 2D:
reality sand in constant flux – not force grains from 0.29 to 2mm in order model predicts deposition
• ‘Many models are over-simplifications of complex systems that are poorly
understood, calibrated or validated’ - van Rijn:
- Widespread avoidance of ‘difficult’ data that will highlight flaws in model/modelers
- Not ground-truthed at all or with appropriate data (e.g. volume/bed level change), but which
sand is being measured & where is the sand coming from or going to & where are the regional
sand boundaries?
- Calibrate & validate with same data or more modeling; no standardised approach, regulation
or defined acceptable limits
- Use off-shelf packages & assume accurate & results defined as ‘satisfactory’ are NOT
- Currents depth-averaged & not near-bed where majority of sand moves
- Clients/regulators unaware of limitations & assumptions & public sceptical & question predictions
Project Examples
(Studies of real-life problems & providing solutions)
(if time & interest)
Ocean City, Philadelphia
Swansea Inlet, Australia
Old Bar, Australia
Tweed Bypass, Australia
Coos Bay, Oregon
Fort Pierce Inlet, Florida
Phil. USACE – Problem: required annual beach nourishment at null zone. Sand tracer study showed:
- ebb shoal sand dynamics
- tidal transport occurred as well, not just wave-dominated transport = some movement 24/7
- data used to validate sand transport model
- study recommendations: reduce sand extraction from ebb shoal borrow site = reduction in need
for beach nourishment eliminating null zone
Null zone
NSW Govt. Lands – Problem: annual dredging to keep channel clear (pumped to seaward beach)
& areas of significant scour undermining channel sides = need to manage sediment. First step
needed better understanding of system
5 sand tracer study
Tidal bay: 42 sq. miles (Choctawatchee 129 sq.miles)
• Greater Taree City Council – Problem: $100m
sea wall or long-term sustainable/beneficial use
or demolish hotel & houses
• One of the highest erosion & recession rates on
east coast Australia
• Many companies & modelers worked at site:
disagreement, ideas that were non-viable &
ultimately no solution to problem – in meantime
several houses demolished
• 3 sand tracers released, tracked over 1 year
• GTCC: study ‘de-bunked
the myths surrounding sediment
transport at the site’
Conclusion: considering sustainable
use of sand from inlet to nourish
beach using sand transfer process
TRESBP (NSW & QLD Govt.) operate sand bypass: interested in regional sand management, cost
share, fate of sand & %ge split between 2 states. Release pre-winter, sampling pre- & post-
significant storm. Yellow arrow –tidal/river flow, Red arrows – wave driven currents
BUT which sand measured in beach/bathy profile?
Portland USACE monitoring 2015 – 2018
- Investigating whether dredge material returns
to channel & port & recycling at significant cost
- 2 colours sand tracer: Orange & Yellow
- ERDC Vicksburg modeling shows monthly
currents; weak in channel despite bay 20 sq
miles, sand waves, instruments buried & lost,
very coarse sediment & standing waves
Orange – Round 1: mostly tidal processes
Yellow – Round 2: winter storms
Orange – Round 1: mostly tidal processes
Yellow – Round 2: winter storms
FDEP & St. Lucie County: 3 sand tracers (inlet & N & S beach), 3 rounds of sampling over ~9 mths;
(Round 1 results released)
Highlights steep project beach undercut; more unstable & no dissipation wave energy leads to
higher erosion rate; ~12 hrs after release
Propose (modular) sand tracing study prior to further work (e.g. Norriego Pt. & dredging):
Review of previous reports, modeling & recent comprehensive beach/bathy survey data
4 main sand tracers: E & W away from ebb shoal, high erosion area to E & N Pt. (poss. N & S inlet)
Metocean data incl. boundary conditions for re-modeling & Sampling 1, 3, 6 & 12 mths up to ~5km
- Versatile technology: different sediment sources, dredging operations or nourishment projects to be
labelled & tracked simultaneously over years (even during storms): say where sand goes & also does not..
- Proven technology in the USA with repeat clients incl. with USACE (Mobile) & FDEP
- Can assist in justifying sand management projects & permitting, convincing the public & regulatory
- Used to properly calibrate and/or validate a model to ensure accurate – only way to obtain key data
(erosion-resuspension, settling & deposition processes)
- ETS is independent & neutral & happy to work with any consulting engineers or stand alone
- Versatile technology: different sediment sources, dredging operations or nourishment projects to be
labelled & tracked simultaneously over years (even during storms): say where sand goes & also does not..
- Proven technology in the USA with repeat clients incl. with USACE (Mobile) & FDEP
- Can assist in justifying sand management projects & permitting, convincing the public & regulatory
- Used to properly calibrate and/or validate a model to ensure accurate – only way to obtain key data
(erosion-resuspension, settling & deposition processes)
- ETS is independent & neutral & happy to work with any consulting engineers or stand alone
- Example studies range ~$150-300K depending on number & quantity of sand tracers, duration of study,
number of sampling events, sampling extent & frequency, metocean data, whether model will be re-run &
study repeated or sampling continued pre- and post-dredging
- Propose to collect reliable & accurate dataset to provide a solution to County’s real-world problem, by:
- developing a concise understanding of system integrating sand tracer data with previous studies
- minimising sand in the inlet & considering sand catching/sand transfer solutions
- understanding short, medium & long-term effects of both man-made (dredging & construction) &
natural events, when & where to place & borrow sand, where it goes & under what conditions
- providing knowledge in order to reduce costs associated with not knowing: County dealing with
concerns, complaints, different viewpoints & having to manage sand often ‘reacting’ to or correcting
for unexpected changes
Any questions?
