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voyage, Mr.
Reynolds observes that, if Kreutzenstern had arrived where he did earlier
in the season, he must have encountered ice—it was March when he
reached the latitude specified. The winds, prevailing, as they do, from
the southward and westward, had carried the floes, aided by currents, into
that icy region bounded on the north by Georgia, east by Sandwich Land and
the South Orkneys, and west by the South Shetland islands.
In 1822, Captain James Weddell, of the British navy, with two very small
vessels, penetrated farther to the south than any previous navigator, and
this, too, without encountering extraordinary difficulties. He states that
although he was frequently hemmed in by ice before reaching the
seventy-second parallel, yet, upon attaining it, not a particle was to be
discovered, and that, upon arriving at the latitude of 74 degrees 15’, no
fields, and only three islands of ice were visible. It is somewhat
remarkable that, although vast flocks of birds were seen, and other usual
indications of land, and although, south of the Shetlands, unknown coasts
were observed from the masthead tending southwardly, Weddell discourages
the idea of land existing in the polar regions of the south.
On the 11th of January, 1823, Captain Benjamin Morrell, of the American
schooner Wasp, sailed from Kerguelen’s Land with a view of penetrating as
far south as possible. On the first of February he found himself in
latitude 64 degrees 52’ S., longitude 118 degrees 27’ E. The following
passage is extracted from his journal of that date. “The wind soon
freshened to an eleven-knot breeze, and we embraced this opportunity of
making to the west; being however convinced that the farther we went south
beyond latitude sixty-four degrees, the less ice was to be apprehended, we
steered a little to the southward, until we crossed the Antarctic circle,
and were in latitude 69 degrees 15’ E. In this latitude there was no field
ice, and very few ice islands in sight.”
Under the date of March fourteenth I find also this entry. “The sea was
now entirely free of field ice, and there were not more than a dozen ice
islands in sight. At the same time the temperature of the air and water
was at least thirteen degrees higher (more mild) than we had ever found it
between the parallels of sixty and sixty-two south. We were now in
latitude 70 degrees 14’ S., and the temperature of the air was
forty-seven, and that of the water forty-four. In this situation I found
the variation to be 14 degrees 27’ easterly, per azimuth.... I have
several times passed within the Antarctic circle, on different meridians,
and have uniformly found the temperature, both of the air and the water,
to become more and more mild the farther I advanced beyond the sixty-fifth
degree of south latitude, and that the variation decreases in the same
proportion. While north of this latitude, say between sixty and sixty-five
south, we frequently had great difficulty in finding a passage for the
vessel between the immense and almost innumerable ice islands, some of
which were from one to two miles in circumference, and more than five
hundred feet above the surface of the water.”
Being nearly destitute of fuel and water, and without proper instruments,
it being also late in the season, Captain Morrell was now obliged to put
back, without attempting any further progress to the westward, although an
entirely open, sea lay before him. He expresses the opinion that, had not
these overruling considerations obliged him to retreat, he could have
penetrated, if not to the pole itself, at least to the eighty-fifth
parallel. I have given his ideas respecting these matters somewhat at
length, that the reader may have an opportunity of seeing how far they
were borne out by my own subsequent experience.
In 1831, Captain Briscoe, in the employ of the Messieurs Enderby,
whale-ship owners of London, sailed in the brig Lively for the South Seas,
accompanied by the cutter Tula. On the twenty-eighth of February, being in
latitude 66 degrees 30’ S., longitude 47 degrees 31’ E., he descried land,
and “clearly discovered through the snow the black peaks of a range of
mountains running E. S. E.” He remained in this neighbourhood during the
whole of the following month, but was unable to approach the coast nearer
than within ten leagues, owing to the boisterous state of the weather.
Finding it impossible to make further discovery during this season, he
returned northward to winter in Van Diemen’s Land.
In the beginning of 1832 he again proceeded southwardly, and on the fourth
of February land was seen to the southeast in latitude 67 degrees 15’ longitude
69 degrees 29’ W. This was soon found to be an island near the headland of
the country he had first discovered. On the twenty-first of the month he
succeeded in landing on the latter, and took possession of it in the name
of William IV, calling it Adelaide’s Island, in honour of the English
queen. These particulars being made known to the Royal Geographical
Society of London, the conclusion was drawn by that body “that there is a
continuous tract of land extending from 47 degrees 30’ E. to 69 degrees
29’ W. longitude, running the parallel of from sixty-six to sixty-seven
degrees south latitude.” In respect to this conclusion Mr. Reynolds
observes: “In the correctness of it we by no means concur; nor do the
discoveries of Briscoe warrant any such indifference. It was within these
limits that Weddel proceeded south on a meridian to the east of Georgia,
Sandwich Land, and the South Orkney and Shetland islands.” My own
experience will be found to testify most directly to the falsity of the
conclusion arrived at by the society.
These are the principal attempts which have been made at penetrating to a
high southern latitude, and it will now be seen that there remained,
previous to the voyage of the Jane, nearly three hundred degrees of
longitude in which the Antarctic circle had not been crossed at all. Of
course a wide field lay before us for discovery, and it was with feelings
of most intense interest that I heard Captain Guy express his resolution
of pushing boldly to the southward.
CHAPTER 17
We kept our course southwardly for four days after giving up the search
for Glass’s islands, without meeting with any ice at all. On the
twenty-sixth, at noon, we were in latitude 63 degrees 23’ S., longitude 41
degrees 25’ W. We now saw several large ice islands, and a floe of field
ice, not, however, of any great extent. The winds generally blew from the
southeast, or the northeast, but were very light. Whenever we had a
westerly wind, which was seldom, it was invariably attended with a rain
squall. Every day we had more or less snow. The thermometer, on the
twenty-seventh stood at thirty-five.
January 1, 1828.—This day we found ourselves completely hemmed in by
the ice, and our prospects looked cheerless indeed. A strong gale blew,
during the whole forenoon, from the northeast, and drove large cakes of
the drift against the rudder and counter with such violence that we all
trembled for the consequences. Toward evening, the gale still blowing with
fury, a large field in front separated, and we were enabled, by carrying a
press of sail to force a passage through the smaller flakes into some open
water beyond. As we approached this space we took in sail by degrees, and
having at length got clear, lay-to under a single reefed foresail.
January 2.—We had now tolerably pleasant weather. At noon we found
ourselves in latitude 69 degrees 10’ S, longitude 42 degrees 20’ W, having
crossed the Antarctic circle. Very little ice was to be seen to the
southward, although large fields of it lay behind us. This day we rigged
some sounding gear, using a large iron pot capable of holding twenty
gallons, and a line of two hundred fathoms. We found the current setting
to the north, about a quarter of a mile per hour. The temperature of the
air was now about thirty-three. Here we found the variation to be 14
degrees 28’ easterly, per azimuth.
January 5.—We had still held on to the southward without any very
great impediments. On this morning, however, being in latitude 73 degrees
15’ E., longitude 42 degrees 10’ W, we were again brought to a stand by an
immense expanse of firm ice. We saw, nevertheless, much open water to the
southward, and felt no doubt of being able to reach it eventually.
Standing to the eastward along the edge of the floe, we at length came to
a passage of about a mile in width, through which we warped our way by
sundown. The sea in which we now were was thickly covered with ice
islands, but had no field ice, and we pushed on boldly as before. The cold
did not seem to increase, although we had snow very frequently, and now
and then hail squalls of great violence. Immense flocks of the albatross
flew over the schooner this day, going from southeast to northwest.
January 7.—The sea still remained pretty well open, so that we had
no difficulty in holding on our course. To the westward we saw some
icebergs of incredible size, and in the afternoon passed very near one
whose summit could not have been less than four hundred fathoms from the
surface of the ocean. Its girth was probably, at the base, three-quarters
of a league, and several streams of water were running from crevices in
its sides. We remained in sight of this island two days, and then only
lost it in a fog.
January 10.—Early this morning we had the misfortune to lose a man
overboard. He was an American named Peter Vredenburgh, a native of New
York, and was one of the most valuable hands on board the schooner. In
going over the bows his foot slipped, and he fell between two cakes of
ice, never rising again. At noon of this day we were in latitude 78
degrees 30’, longitude 40 degrees 15’ W. The cold was now excessive, and
we had hail squalls continually from the northward and eastward. In this
direction also we saw several more immense icebergs, and the whole horizon
to the eastward appeared to be blocked up with field ice, rising in tiers,
one mass above the other. Some driftwood floated by during the evening,
and a great quantity of birds flew over, among which were nellies,
peterels, albatrosses, and a large bird of a brilliant blue plumage. The
variation here, per azimuth, was less than it had been previously to our
passing the Antarctic circle.
January 12.—Our passage to the south again looked doubtful, as nothing was
to be seen in the direction of the pole but one apparently limitless floe,
backed by absolute mountains of ragged ice, one precipice of which arose
frowningly above the other. We stood to the westward until the fourteenth,
in the hope of finding an entrance.
January 14.—This morning we reached the western extremity of the field
which had impeded us, and, weathering it, came to an open sea, without a
particle of ice. Upon sounding with two hundred fathoms, we here found a
current setting southwardly at the rate of half a mile per hour. The
temperature of the air was forty-seven, that of the water thirty-four. We
now sailed to the southward without meeting any interruption of moment
until the sixteenth, when, at noon, we were in latitude 81 degrees 21’,
longitude 42 degrees W. We here again sounded, and found a current setting
still southwardly, and at the rate of three quarters of a mile per hour.
The variation per azimuth had diminished, and the temperature of the air
was mild and pleasant, the thermometer being as high as fifty-one. At this
period not a particle of ice was to be discovered. All hands on board now
felt certain of attaining the pole.
January 17.—This day was full of incident. Innumerable flights of
birds flew over us from the southward, and several were shot from the
deck, one of them, a species of pelican, proved to be excellent eating.
About midday a small floe of ice was seen from the masthead off the
larboard bow, and upon it there appeared to be some large animal. As the
weather was good and nearly calm,
