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less than five thousand six hundred, and says
that he would have had no difficulty in loading a large ship with oil in
three weeks. Upon his arrival he found no quadrupeds, with the exception
of a few wild goats; the island now abounds with all our most valuable
domestic animals, which have been introduced by subsequent navigators.
I believe it was not long after Captain Patten’s visit that Captain
Colquhoun, of the American brig Betsey, touched at the largest of the
islands for the purpose of refreshment. He planted onions, potatoes,
cabbages, and a great many other vegetables, an abundance of all which is
now to be met with.
In 1811, a Captain Haywood, in the Nereus, visited Tristan. He found there
three Americans, who were residing upon the island to prepare sealskins
and oil. One of these men was named Jonathan Lambert, and he called
himself the sovereign of the country. He had cleared and cultivated about
sixty acres of land, and turned his attention to raising the coffee-plant
and sugar-cane, with which he had been furnished by the American Minister
at Rio Janeiro. This settlement, however, was finally abandoned, and in
1817 the islands were taken possession of by the British Government, who
sent a detachment for that purpose from the Cape of Good Hope. They did
not, however, retain them long; but, upon the evacuation of the country as
a British possession, two or three English families took up their
residence there independently of the Government. On the twenty-fifth of
March, 1824, the Berwick, Captain Jeffrey, from London to Van Diemen’s
Land, arrived at the place, where they found an Englishman of the name of
Glass, formerly a corporal in the British artillery. He claimed to be
supreme governor of the islands, and had under his control twenty-one men
and three women. He gave a very favourable account of the salubrity of the
climate and of the productiveness of the soil. The population occupied
themselves chiefly in collecting sealskins and sea elephant oil, with
which they traded to the Cape of Good Hope, Glass owning a small schooner.
At the period of our arrival the governor was still a resident, but his
little community had multiplied, there being fifty-six persons upon
Tristan, besides a smaller settlement of seven on Nightingale Island. We
had no difficulty in procuring almost every kind of refreshment which we
required—sheep, hogs, bullocks, rabbits, poultry, goats, fish in
great variety, and vegetables were abundant. Having come to anchor close
in with the large island, in eighteen fathoms, we took all we wanted on
board very conveniently. Captain Guy also purchased of Glass five hundred
sealskins and some ivory. We remained here a week, during which the
prevailing winds were from the northward and westward, and the weather
somewhat hazy. On the fifth of November we made sail to the southward and
westward, with the intention of having a thorough search for a group of
islands called the Auroras, respecting whose existence a great diversity
of opinion has existed.
These islands are said to have been discovered as early as 1762, by the
commander of the ship Aurora. In 1790, Captain Manuel de Oyarvido, in the
ship Princess, belonging to the Royal Philippine Company, sailed, as he
asserts, directly among them. In 1794, the Spanish corvette Atrevida went
with the determination of ascertaining their precise situation, and, in a
paper published by the Royal Hydrographical Society of Madrid in the year
1809, the following language is used respecting this expedition: “The
corvette Atrevida practised, in their immediate vicinity, from the
twenty-first to the twenty-seventh of January, all the necessary
observations, and measured by chronometers the difference of longitude
between these islands and the port of Soledad in the Manillas. The islands
are three, they are very nearly in the same meridian; the centre one is
rather low, and the other two may be seen at nine leagues’ distance.” The
observations made on board the Atrevida give the following results as the
precise situation of each island. The most northern is in latitude 52
degrees 37’ 24” S., longitude 47 degrees, 43’ 15” W.; the middle one in
latitude 53 degrees 2’ 40” S., longitude 47 degrees 55’ 15” W.; and the
most southern in latitude 53 degrees 15’ 22” S., longitude 47 degrees 57’
15” W.
On the twenty-seventh of January, 1820, Captain James Weddel, of the
British navy, sailed from Staten Land also in search of the Auroras. He
reports that, having made the most diligent search and passed not only
immediately over the spots indicated by the commander of the Atrevida, but
in every direction throughout the vicinity of these spots, he could
discover no indication of land. These conflicting statements have induced
other navigators to look out for the islands; and, strange to say, while
some have sailed through every inch of sea where they are supposed to lie
without finding them, there have been not a few who declare positively
that they have seen them; and even been close in with their shores. It was
Captain Guy’s intention to make every exertion within his power to settle
the question so oddly in dispute. {*3}
We kept on our course, between the south and west, with variable weather,
until the twentieth of the month, when we found ourselves on the debated
ground, being in latitude 53 degrees 15’ S., longitude 47 degrees 58’ W.—that
is to say, very nearly upon the spot indicated as the situation of the
most southern of the group. Not perceiving any sign of land, we continued
to the westward of the parallel of fifty-three degrees south, as far as
the meridian of fifty degrees west. We then stood to the north as far as
the parallel of fifty-two degrees south, when we turned to the eastward,
and kept our parallel by double altitudes, morning and evening, and
meridian altitudes of the planets and moon. Having thus gone eastwardly to
the meridian of the western coast of Georgia, we kept that meridian until
we were in the latitude from which we set out. We then took diagonal
courses throughout the entire extent of sea circumscribed, keeping a
lookout constantly at the masthead, and repeating our examination with the
greatest care for a period of three weeks, during which the weather was
remarkably pleasant and fair, with no haze whatsoever. Of course we were
thoroughly satisfied that, whatever islands might have existed in this
vicinity at any former period, no vestige of them remained at the present
day. Since my return home I find that the same ground was traced over,
with equal care, in 1822, by Captain Johnson, of the American schooner
Henry, and by Captain Morrell in the American schooner Wasp—in both
cases with the same result as in our own.
CHAPTER 16
It had been Captain Guy’s original intention, after satisfying himself
about the Auroras, to proceed through the Strait of Magellan, and up along
the western coast of Patagonia; but information received at Tristan
d’Acunha induced him to steer to the southward, in the hope of falling in
with some small islands said to lie about the parallel of 60 degrees S.,
longitude 41 degrees 20’ W. In the event of his not discovering these
lands, he designed, should the season prove favourable, to push on toward
the pole. Accordingly, on the twelfth of December, we made sail in that
direction. On the eighteenth we found ourselves about the station
indicated by Glass, and cruised for three days in that neighborhood
without finding any traces of the islands he had mentioned. On the
twenty-first, the weather being unusually pleasant, we again made sail to
the southward, with the resolution of penetrating in that course as far as
possible. Before entering upon this portion of my narrative, it may be as
well, for the information of those readers who have paid little attention
to the progress of discovery in these regions, to give some brief account
of the very few attempts at reaching the southern pole which have hitherto
been made.
That of Captain Cook was the first of which we have any distinct account.
In 1772 he sailed to the south in the Resolution, accompanied by
Lieutenant Furneaux in the Adventure. In December he found himself as far
as the fifty-eighth parallel of south latitude, and in longitude 26
degrees 57’ E. Here he met with narrow fields of ice, about eight or ten
inches thick, and running northwest and southeast. This ice was in large
cakes, and usually it was packed so closely that the vessel had great
difficulty in forcing a passage. At this period Captain Cook supposed,
from the vast number of birds to be seen, and from other indications, that
he was in the near vicinity of land. He kept on to the southward, the
weather being exceedingly cold, until he reached the sixty-fourth
parallel, in longitude 38 degrees 14’ E. Here he had mild weather, with
gentle breezes, for five days, the thermometer being at thirty-six. In
January, 1773, the vessels crossed the Antarctic circle, but did not
succeed in penetrating much farther; for upon reaching latitude 67 degrees
15’ they found all farther progress impeded by an immense body of ice,
extending all along the southern horizon as far as the eye could reach.
This ice was of every variety—and some large floes of it, miles in
extent, formed a compact mass, rising eighteen or twenty feet above the
water. It being late in the season, and no hope entertained of rounding
these obstructions, Captain Cook now reluctantly turned to the northward.
In the November following he renewed his search in the Antarctic. In
latitude 59 degrees 40’ he met with a strong current setting to the
southward. In December, when the vessels were in latitude 67 degrees 31’,
longitude 142 degrees 54’ W., the cold was excessive, with heavy gales and
fog. Here also birds were abundant; the albatross, the penguin, and the
peterel especially. In latitude 70 degrees 23’ some large islands of ice
were encountered, and shortly afterward the clouds to the southward were
observed to be of a snowy whiteness, indicating the vicinity of field ice.
In latitude 71 degrees 10’, longitude 106 degrees 54’ W., the navigators
were stopped, as before, by an immense frozen expanse, which filled the
whole area of the southern horizon. The northern edge of this expanse was
ragged and broken, so firmly wedged together as to be utterly impassible,
and extending about a mile to the southward. Behind it the frozen surface
was comparatively smooth for some distance, until terminated in the
extreme background by gigantic ranges of ice mountains, the one towering
above the other. Captain Cook concluded that this vast field reached the
southern pole or was joined to a continent. Mr. J. N. Reynolds, whose
great exertions and perseverance have at length succeeded in getting set
on foot a national expedition, partly for the purpose of exploring these
regions, thus speaks of the attempt of the Resolution. “We are not
surprised that Captain Cook was unable to go beyond 71 degrees 10’, but we
are astonished that he did attain that point on the meridian of 106
degrees 54’ west longitude. Palmer’s Land lies south of the Shetland,
latitude sixty-four degrees, and tends to the southward and westward
farther than any navigator has yet penetrated. Cook was standing for this
land when his progress was arrested by the ice; which, we apprehend, must
always be the case in that point, and so early in the season as the sixth
of January—and we should not be surprised if a portion of the icy
mountains described was attached to the main body of Palmer’s Land, or to
some other portions of land lying farther to the southward and westward.”
In 1803, Captains Kreutzenstern and Lisiausky were dispatched by Alexander
of Russia for the purpose of circumnavigating the globe. In endeavouring
to get south, they made no farther than 59 degrees 58’, in longitude 70
degrees 15’ W. They here met with strong currents setting eastwardly.
Whales were abundant, but they saw no ice. In regard to this
